Tarun Tahiliani redefines style and glamour with his SS 14 collection

Veteran designer, Tarun Tahiliani showcased his latest Spring Summer 2014 collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week 2013. Using myriad ideas – from sorbet colours to arcane techniques, this box transforms into that of Pandora’s. Full of mystery and revelation; of languorous resort wear, each version surprising and unique in its entirety and yet part of this assorted collection.

With emphasis on pret a porter, it focuses on exquisite separates that can be paired up to create various permutations and combinations that never get old. It takes you from the delicate land of European chintz to indigenous Bidri work to Jamawaar and abstract art. The multiple influences are translated into everything from a T-shirt and pencil skirt to a lehenga, kaftan or a sari because despite being   Ready -To -Wear one style does not fit all.

Moving towards a more relaxed glamour it effectively uses summer cottons and sushi voile, fine thread work and chikankari that belie comfort in fashion. An understated elegance that brings to the fore the importance of dressing up in the day – be it ombre chiffon saris or kimkhab kurtas in sheer gossamer silk.

A cornucopia of colour teeming with vitality is an essential for our tropical summer. Indigo mustard and fuchsia frolic creating shades of the sunset. Bombarded by colours that personify the joie de vivre of an Indian festival; almost as a corollary there is the brahmanical restraint of black and white, ivory and beige.

Paisley is reincarnated in a desi avatar making its presence felt in kaftans that flow with the wind and yet mould themselves to the body. Like an efficient paradox, bold flamboyant borders give body to garments and provide poetic contrast to pieces of otherwise stoic reserve.

The architectural wonder that is this collection comes through with the extensive use of levels, panels and layering. Creating sundry optical illusion it can be used to give an impression of height. The structured panels in flowing fabric allow a trompel’oeil effect. Adding a bottom cowl to a skirt or a layered cape kurta that sits elegantly on one’s shoulder, the masters of drape have gone back to their roots and reintroduced custom draping in every day wear.

Debuting in this collection - the kurta comes with the twist of an attached dupatta. Modern in silhouette and draped like slouched luxury, it forms different levels in the same piece of clothing and moulds itself to the body. The concept kurtas go beyond imagination – asymmetrical, floral, abstract, draped, high slit, cut out, lace work; one is spoilt for choice.

A separate that stands out – it’s a trend in the making. Versatile enough to move across continents, the gilet looks perfectly at home over bidri pants, a dhoti sari or a traditional kurta. The lame cutwork gilet is an engineering feat that smooth’s over the torso without breaking even flow. This multipurpose garment brings together fashion and function as kasab gilet, with filigree like intricacy keeps the flaming orange dhoti sari in place.