Veteran Fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani, known for his
excellence in the industry opened Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter
2014 in New Delhi in which evergreen and gracious bollywood actress Shilpa
Shetty Kundra graced the ramp with her glamorous walk to wind up the show. Other
celebrities to join her were Harman Baweja and Ayesha Khanna, stars of her first production venture titled "Dishkiyaoon". All the stars
looked absolutely stunning in Traun Tahiliani’s collection representing Indian
heritage and colours.
Blurring the lines between adorning and dressing, between a
product of style and a piece of art; the TARUN TAHILIANI Autumn/Winter
Collection 2014 does away with the distinction between clothes and jewellery.
Inspired by ornaments found all over the world, this season they dig deep in
the trenches of the heritage of the world and strike gold.
“I am an individualist, evolving a new technique, which
though not necessarily Indian in the traditional sense of the word, will yet be
fundamentally Indian in spirit” so said Amrita Sher-Gil, who went on to
interpret the life of Indian poor on the plane of colour.
“This is what struck me as a huge similarity when I was
wandering through the exhibition, that in fact this studio does precisely that,
straining to capture the last free flowing drapes into easy fluid structured
forms, as observed from around the subcontinent and parade with the vibrancy of
colour, the intricate embellishments and the symbols that came to define these
races. To give them a contemporary form, to redefine relevance and most
important, not to lose a particular vocabulary forever, by celebrating it in a
new avatar everyday- Hence ornament as the principal embellishment is the glue
that binds this collection together, “ this is how Tarun Tahiliani describes
his latest collection.
The Satlada inspired series is an instant pick me up. These
are statement pieces with necklines so ornamental they render a jeweller
useless. Details of gold finery deck the collars and cuffs giving the illusion
of layers of golden thread. The tunics stand out providing the ease of wearing
heavy jewel patterns on fabrics light as air. Also partaking in the gold rush
is the South Indian Necklace series. The iconic shape of this jewellery lends
itself to the flattering emperor silhouette and lush necklines. The ornate
kaftans balance the heavy gold pattern with recurring jewel motif making it
luxuriant and indulgence ready. No jewel inspired series is complete without
influence of the Mughals – the signature stone-work, miniature paintings and
mango shaped motifs with Swarovski Elements represent a delicate glamour in
gossamer, multi-colour hues.
From jewels of India to all over the world; Pleated Enamel
is a slimming print, which creates the illusion of drape. Tops with
mukaish-work and a full village-belle skirt add elements of fun, while striking
kurtas and tunics with medallions and doubloons painted on form an emblazoned
bounty. Paying homage to Tapestry; velvet, net and zardozi come together to
form the ultimate peasant dress with jewelled collar. The delicate kalidar
kurta in floating sheer silk lends elfin qualities and the Art Nouveau
influence with its graceful curvilinear form makes it ideally suited for
blouses.
There is also new found emphasis on print – multiscarf
patterns where various squares form a singular print and create an optical
illusion, creating tier upon delicate tier, make towering kaftans,
unconventional saris and dhoti skirts; black and white Kaleidoscope based
patterns shown in jackets with slits, short crop jackets and long asymmetric
kurtas give traditional clothing global edge and the Jamawar based pencil skirt
is a delicate work of seemingly hand painted filigree fading into a darker
ombre creating a trompe l’oeil effect. Vintage embroidery in honeyed rusts is
brought to life against black contrasts of velvet, seen on tunics with dolman
sleeves, bejewelled collars and an anarkali, gilet and churidar pairing.
Taking the mastery achieved in years of draping and
contemporising it into separates; this ready-to-wear collection offers a
smorgasbord of options and allows the wearer some room for individuality. The
dhoti and lungi drape inspired pants and skirts are a DIY solution, easily
paired with daily urban wear. Every inspired theme has blouses with adventurous
backs and embroidery that can be paired with multiple saris to create myriad
combinations. Tunics, gilets, scarves, kurtas, vintage dresses, kedeo inspired
shirts, stud-work sheer pants that jazz up any ensemble, graceful kaftans that
fall like French peignoirs, and even variations of the concept sari from every
theme leave you spoilt for choice, as any true Prêt-à-Porter line must.
The pashmina wraps are to be a welcome addition in the
Indian closet. Open to interpretation, it creates interesting levels and falls
differently on different bodies. A versatile object in moody hues, not only
does it prove to be a graceful solution to layering on ethnic wear but also
sits perfectly on layered skirts in urban gypsy mode. The idea traces its root
in the early drape tradition of the country when the clothes would mould to fit
the body and not vice versa.
Occasion Wear
The minarets and the in-lay technique of the celebrated
monument directly inspire ‘The Taj Collection’. Georgettes swish and cascade
from the shoulder in a butti dupatta of raw silk and zari as the kurta with its
train envelope your silhouette creating an ethereal glow of light. There are
anarkalis in sheer fabrics with hand embroidery and peek-a-boo backs with the
intricacy of a Persian mural. Lehengas that carry old world traditions lightly
in soft net and chanderi cut-work, and chikankari saris with pathra borders on
soft net, it has the restrained colour palette of ivory, pale yellow and peach
the belies a quite elegance and subtle charm.
‘The Crystal Constellation’ gives wings to fairy tales.
Constellation inspired lehengas, in shades of twinkling champagne, poofing out
like a fantasy with fully embroidered bodices. The net and lace in gold create
a visible aura around the adorned as if you ‘walk in beauty’. Embroidered kalis
on soft tulle are light and playful and yet refined enough to be a bulwark of
ceremony.
‘The Regalia Trousseau Collection’ is bold in colour,
challenging with passionate red, kesar and hot pink. High collared blouses lend
you the arrogance and regalia of a Royal while feminine silhouettes with dori
work speak of the humility and grace of an era gone by. The ombré dyes in three
colours give the luminescence of the light shade while merging into the
gravitas of the darker one. Gota lehengas and brocade blouses hark back to
imperial splendor while the lehenga sari, authentic to its grandiose origin
makes a truly blue blooded statement.
‘The Colour Mirage Collection’ is a burst of citrus joy with
shades ranging from an aqua-like blue-green to playful pinks and rogue rouge,
all given the ombré treatment. Shaded chiffons with sequins and sheathed
corsets are a flirty feminine alternative. Paired with a flute blouse and
embellished with sparkling Swarovski Elements, the colours blossom with
youthful enthusiasm and Resham embroidered kalis with floral artwork give a
light romantic pastoral air.
Model and actress Cheryl McQueen was recently chosen to
collaborate on a project with celebrity hair stylist, George Papanikolas. This
unique project will include a video and photo-shoot, which will introduce the
new line of color to hair care professionals and the public.
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